I stood in the middle of Kathmandu's Tribhuvan Airport, my oversized backpack feeling heavier by the second, surrounded by a cacophony of sounds and a swirl of unfamiliar smells. I had done my research. I knew about the permits, had packed my Diamox for altitude, and had my trekking itinerary saved on my phone. I was prepared. Or so I thought.
Nepal, in its majestic, chaotic, and profoundly beautiful way, has a habit of teaching you lessons you didn't know you needed to learn. It’s a country that doesn’t just change your passport stamps; it changes your perspective. Looking back on weeks spent trekking in the Annapurnas, navigating ancient cities, and sharing meals with Sherpa families, there’s so much I wish I could tell my pre-trip self.
If you're planning your own Nepali adventure, here are the things I truly wish I’d known before my boots ever hit the trail.
1. "Nepali Flat" is a Lie (But a Beautiful One)
You’ll see this term on trekking itineraries: "Day 3: 5 hours of walking on Nepali flat." Let me decode this for you. "Nepali flat" does not mean flat. It means a relentless series of soul-testing ascents and knee-jarring descents, just without gaining a net altitude of 1,000 meters in a single push. It’s uphill, then downhill, then uphill again along a mountainside.
What I Wish I Knew: My gym sessions on the stair master were useful, but nothing truly prepares you for it. The key is to embrace the rhythm. Walk slowly (bistari, bistari as the Nepalis say), and invest in a good pair of trekking poles. They will save your knees on those "flat" downhill sections more than you can imagine. The constant undulation is exhausting, but it’s also what reveals the most incredible, hidden viewpoints you’d never see from a truly flat path.
2. Cash is King, Especially on the Trail
While trendy cafes in Thamel and Pokhara are increasingly accepting credit cards, the moment you step onto a trekking route, the economy runs on crisp Nepali Rupees (NPR). ATMs in places like Namche Bazaar exist, but they are infamous for running out of cash, having long lines, and charging exorbitant fees. The idea of pulling out money as you go is a risky strategy.
What I Wish I Knew: Bring more cash than you think you’ll need from Kathmandu or Pokhara. Calculate your costs for teahouses, food, drinks, and showers, then add a 30% buffer for emergencies, extra chocolate bars, and that hand-knitted hat you didn't know you wanted. US dollars in good condition are great for a backup, but rupees are what you’ll use for everything on the mountain.
3. The Teahouse is a Sanctuary, Not Just a Hotel
I pictured basic shelters. What I found were some of the most welcoming institutions on earth. A teahouse is more than a place to sleep; it’s a communal dining hall, a drying room for soggy socks, a source of hot chiya (tea), and a place to share stories with trekkers from around the world. The rooms are sparse—usually just two beds and a small table—but the heart of the teahouse is the bukhari (wood-burning stove) in the common room.
What I Wish I Knew:
The Dining Room Rule: It's an unspoken rule that you eat dinner and breakfast at the teahouse you're staying in. This is how these families make their living, as room rates are incredibly cheap.
Order Strategically: Menus are surprisingly long, but stick to Dal Bhat. It’s the staple meal of lentils, rice, and vegetables, and it’s often advertised with a playful "Dal Bhat Power, 24 Hour!" for a reason. It’s nutritious, filling, and, most importantly, they can usually whip up a fresh batch if you get food poisoning from a more adventurous menu item.
Bring a Sleeping Bag: Even if they provide blankets, the nights get bitterly cold. A good four-season sleeping bag is non-negotiable for comfort and warmth.
4. It’s Not a Wilderness Trek; It’s a Cultural Pilgrimage
I went for the mountains. I came back remembering the people. The trails of Everest and Annapurna are not untouched wildernesses; they are the main streets of the high Himalayas. You are walking through a living, working landscape. You’ll share the path with donkeys carrying supplies, porters with staggering loads, and local children walking to school.
What I Wish I Knew:
Learn the Greetings: A simple "Namaste" with your hands pressed together goes an incredibly long way.
Respect the Trail: The rule of the trail is that uphill trekkers and loaded porters have the right of way. Step aside and let them pass.
Ditch the Headphones: Some of my most profound moments came from the sound of prayer flags fluttering in the wind, the distant bells of a yak train, and snippets of conversation with passing locals. Being present is the greatest gift you can give yourself.
5. Kathmandu and Pokhara are Worlds Apart
I had lumped them together as "Nepali cities." They couldn't be more different. Kathmandu is a glorious, overwhelming assault on the senses. The air is thick with dust and incense, the streets are a chaotic dance of motorcycles and people, and ancient temples sit nestled between modern concrete. Pokhara, by contrast, is an oasis of calm. Situated on a serene lake with stunning mountain views, it’s where you go to decompress before or after a trek.
What I Wish I Knew: Don't try to "do" Kathmandu in a day. The chaos can be exhausting. Schedule time to just sit in a courtyard like Patan Durbar Square and watch the world go by. And use Pokhara as your recovery hub. Paragliding over Phewa Lake after a long trek is a feeling of pure, unbridled joy.
6. Your Stomach Will Probably Rebel (And It's Okay)
"Don't drink the tap water" is obvious. What’s less obvious is the sheer number of ways your digestive system can be challenged. From the oils used in cooking to unfamiliar spices or just a new set of bacteria, it’s very common to have a day or two of gastrointestinal distress, nicknamed "Delhi Belly" or, in this case, "Kathmandu Quickstep."
What I Wish I Knew:
Be Religious About Hygiene: Hand sanitizer after every handrail, before every meal. Avoid salads and any fruit you can’t peel yourself.
Pack a Pharmacy: Bring a robust kit including an antibiotic like Ciprofloxacin (after consulting your doctor), anti-diarrheal tablets, and rehydration sals.
Embrace Dal Bhat: It’s often the safest and most comforting option when your stomach is feeling fragile.
7. The Lukla Flight is an Adventure in Itself
The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, the gateway to Everest, is legendary. It’s a 30-minute rollercoaster through the Himalayas, landing on a short, uphill runway carved into a mountainside, often dubbed the "world's most dangerous airport." The weather is notoriously fickle, causing frequent delays and cancellations.
What I Wish I Knew: Build at least 2-3 buffer days into your itinerary for flight delays. The stress of potentially missing your international flight home is not something you want hanging over your trek. Alternatively, consider the new option of flying into Manthali Airport (Ramechhap) during peak seasons, which, while adding a bus journey, is often more reliable.
The One Thing I Got Right: Saying "Yes"
Despite all the things I didn't know, the one thing I did right was to say "yes." Yes to a second cup of tea with a teahouse owner. Yes to a detour to a hidden viewpoint. Yes to trying a local dumpling I couldn't pronounce. Yes to the discomfort, the challenge, and the sheer, unadulterated beauty of it all.
Nepal isn’t a country you simply visit. It’s a country you experience, you feel, and you carry with you long after you’ve returned home. Go prepared, but be prepared to be unprepared. The best adventures, the ones that make for much better stories, always lie just beyond the edge of your itinerary.
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