My solo Journey to Everest and Annapurna Base Camps

Solo in the Shadow of Giants: I came to Nepal to find myself in the mountains and then realized I had to lose myself first-2.The idea was simple on a map: two lines drawn through the Himalayas, one snaking toward Everest, the other winding into the Annapurna Sanctuary. I planned to walk them alone. This is the story of that solo journey—a tapestry woven from thin air, endless stone steps, and the profound silence that exists only when you are a solitary speck against the greatest mountains on Earth. It’s a tale of logistical puzzles, unexpected kindness, and the quiet transformation that comes from relying on no one but yourself at 5,000 meters.

The Call of the Khumbu: First Steps to Everest

My adventure began, as most do, with a leap of faith—onto a tiny Twin Otter aircraft at Kathmandu’s domestic airport. The flight to Lukla is legendary, and for good reason. The runway is a short, inclined strip of concrete perched on a cliffside-9. As the plane’s engine cut on final approach—a standard procedure to aid braking on the impossibly short strip—I understood why this is often called the world’s most dangerous airport-5.

Landing in Lukla is like stepping into a different world. The air is crisper, and the pace shifts from chaotic to deliberate. I carried my own pack, a conscious choice to embrace the full, unmediated experience-2. The trail from Lukla is a river of humanity, yet walking solo, I could set my own rhythm. The first day’s walk to Phakding is deceptively gentle, a descent through pine-scented forests and across suspension bridges strung with fading prayer flags-1.

The real work begins on the second day, on the long, punishing climb to Namche Bazaar. The trail ascends relentlessly beside the Dudh Koshi, the "Milky River," culminating in a final heart-pounding push just after the last, towering suspension bridge-5. Reaching Namche, a bustling Sherpa town built into an amphitheater of mountains, felt like a major victory. Here, I took my first acclimatization day, hiking to the Everest View Hotel. The mountains play a game of hide-and-seek with the clouds, and when the veil finally parted, there it was: my first glimpse of Everest’s summit pyramid, a distant, wind-blown plume of snow marking the top of the world-5-9.

The Heart of the Journey: Monasteries and Moraines

Beyond Namche, the world simplifies to a path, a pack, and the next teahouse. The walk to Tengboche is one of the trek’s most beautiful stages, with the majestic Ama Dablam dominating the skyline-1. I arrived in time for the afternoon prayers at Tengboche Monastery, sitting silently in the cold hall as the monks’ chants filled the air, a moment of profound peace-5.

With each passing day, the air grew thinner and the landscapes more severe. From Dingboche, the vista opens into a high, cold valley of scrub and rock. An acclimatization hike here is essential. I climbed the ridge behind the village, where a 360-degree panorama of icy giants—Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam—awaited-9. This is where the trek shifts from a hike to a high-altitude expedition.

The stretch to Lobuche passes the haunting Everest memorials, a sobering reminder of the mountain’s power. Then came the big day: the push to Gorak Shep, a desolate outpost, and finally, to Everest Base Camp (EBC) itself-9.

Reaching EBC is an anti-climax of the best kind. There’s no dramatic view of Everest’s summit from here. Instead, you stand on the chaotic, frozen rubble of the Khumbu Glacier, looking up at the notorious Khumbu Icefall—a jumbled maze of seracs and crevasses that guards the mountain’s southern route. The sense of achievement isn’t in the view, but in the presence. You are standing at the foot of history-5.

The true visual reward comes from Kala Patthar. I ascended in the pre-dawn dark the next morning. At 5,545 meters, gasping in the frigid air, I watched the first sun of the day ignite Everest’s north face in a blaze of golden light. In that silent, solitary moment, every arduous step was justified-9.

A Different Kind of Beauty: The Solo Trek to Annapurna Base Camp

After the epic scale of Everest, the Annapurna Sanctuary offered a different allure. The ABC trek is often described as more accessible, but for a solo trekker, its magic lies in incredible diversity and intimate landscapes-3.

The journey started not with a flight, but with a long drive from Pokhara to Nayapul-3. Immediately, the difference was striking. Where EBC’s trails are often rocky and exposed, the path to ABC winds through vibrant rhododendron forests, terraced farms, and lively Gurung and Magar villages like Chhomrong and Bamboo-3. The cultural immersion is constant and warm.

The climb is no less strenuous, featuring seemingly endless stone staircases. But the changing scenery is a constant distraction. The forest gradually gives way to alpine meadows, and the canyon walls close in, building anticipation. The final approach through the "Sanctuary" is breathtaking: you are suddenly surrounded by a near-circle of towering peaks—the Annapurna Massif and the iconic fishtail summit of Machapuchare-3.

Annapurna Base Camp, at 4,130 meters, feels more intimate than EBC-3. You are not at the foot of a single giant, but in the sacred heart of a family of mountains. Waking up there to a sunrise that paints the surrounding amphitheater of rock and ice in brilliant hues is an experience of pure, undisturbed wonder.

Solo on the Trail: Practical Realities and Inner Journeys

Traveling solo on these iconic routes is a deeply personal undertaking that blends logistics with introspection.

Logistics and Safety: Officially, Nepal now requires trekkers to be accompanied by a licensed guide-2. In practice, on these established routes, independent trekking is still common. I secured the necessary permits (TIMS and Sagarmatha National Park entry for EBC; ACAP and TIMS for ABC) in Kathmandu and Pokhara respectively-2-9. The key is informing checkpoints along the way. Teahouses are plentiful on both routes, offering basic, warm lodging and hearty dal bhat (lentils and rice)-3-5. Carrying cash is essential, as ATMs disappear after Namche or Pokhara-9.

The Mental Landscape: The greatest challenge and gift of solo trekking is the solitude. As one writer put it, "I'm in a very important relationship… with me"-6. Long walking days become moving meditations. You confront minor frustrations—a sore knee, a sudden hailstorm—with only your own resolve. This self-reliance builds a unique kind of confidence. Furthermore, escaping the digital world is a liberation. Letting go of the urge to document everything for social media allows you to be fully present for a sunset over Ama Dablam or a quiet conversation with a Sherpa teahouse owner-6.

Community on the Trail: "Solo" does not mean "lonely." The trekking community is inherently friendly. I often found myself walking alongside others for hours, sharing stories and chocolate, before parting ways. In teahouse dining halls, camaraderie flourishes over shared meals and cards. The kindness of locals is also a constant lesson. Sherpa and Gurung families run these remote teahouses with a generosity that humbles you, offering smiles and shelter in some of the planet's most formidable terrain-6.

EBC vs. ABC: A Solo Trekker's Comparison

Aspect	Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek	Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Trek
Core Experience	High-altitude challenge, iconic mountaineering history, Sherpa culture-3.	Diverse landscapes, rich cultural immersion, panoramic mountain amphitheater-3.
Max. Altitude	5,364m at EBC; 5,545m at Kala Patthar-3.	4,130m at ABC-3.
Difficulty	More challenging due to sustained high altitude, requiring careful acclimatization-3.	Moderate, with significant ascent/descent but lower altitude risk-3.
Solo Vibe	Busier, more international trail. Solitude is found in side hikes and early mornings.	Can feel quieter, especially on alternative routes. More interaction with village life.
Key Solo Tip	Acclimatize meticulously. Listen to your body. Consider a satellite messenger for safety.	Enjoy the flexibility to explore villages. The trail is well-marked, offering peace of mind.
Transformative Moment	The stark, humbling vista from Kala Patthar at dawn-9.	The sunrise revealing the ring of peaks inside the Sanctuary-3.

The Descent and the Return

Coming down is always faster, but it carries a subtle melancholy. As you descend back into forests, thicker air, and the growing buzz of connectivity, you begin to reintegrate the experience. The transition back to "normal life" can be jarring; one trekker described feeling restless and depressed upon returning to tourist towns after the mountains' simplicity-2.

The mountains give you a new lens. Problems seem smaller, and the clutter of daily life feels less urgent. You return with calloused feet, a lighter pack, and a quieter mind, carrying the persistent, quiet truth that the most challenging paths often lead to the most beautiful places—both on the map and within yourself.

The call of the Himalayas is a personal one. For me, answering it alone to both Everest and Annapurna was not about checking boxes on a list, but about learning the language of my own resilience in the world's most majestic classroom. The trails are there, waiting. All you have to do is take the first step.